Lead water service lines: how to check yours

To check whether you may have a lead water service line, start with your water utility's service line inventory or map, then inspect the pipe that enters your home near the water meter and do a careful scratch-and-magnet check. If the utility record is missing or unclear, or if the visible pipe looks like lead, the safest next step is to ask the utility to confirm the line material and have your drinking water tested. (epa.gov)

Start with the utility's records

For most people, the best first check is not a scratch test. It is the water utility's record for your address. EPA required public water systems covered by the Lead and Copper Rule Revisions to prepare and maintain a service line inventory by October 16, 2024. EPA's 2024 rule improvements also say the inventory must be publicly accessible, and systems serving more than 50,000 people must post it online. (epa.gov)

That means your city or utility may already have an address lookup, map, or customer service team that can tell you whether your line is listed as lead, non-lead, galvanized requiring replacement, or unknown. If you are starting from scratch, use /find to look up your local page, or try the /tools/water-line-check tool for a quick ownership and responsibility check. (epa.gov)

Do not treat an unknown or incomplete record as proof that your line is safe. EPA's inventory guidance explains that utilities often rely on old maps, meter records, inspections, permits, and other historical records. Philadelphia's utility says incomplete records often mean there is no record for part of the buried pipe, so the material may still be lead. (nepis.epa.gov)

Find the pipe you can safely inspect

If the utility record is missing, old, or marked unknown, the next step is to look at the service line where it enters your home. The service line is the pipe that brings water from the main in the street into the building. In many homes, the visible part is in the basement or lowest level, near the main shutoff and water meter, before the pipe branches off to sinks or toilets. (water.phila.gov)

This is the same part of the system people ask about when they are trying to sort out the curb stop, the meter, and the property line. If that layout is confusing, this guide on /guides/curb-stop-and-meter-explained can help you picture what belongs where. A visible indoor section is useful, but remember that it may show only one part of the full buried line. (water.phila.gov)

If you cannot see the pipe where it enters the building, or if the area is blocked, a licensed plumber or your water utility may be able to help confirm the material. Utilities in EPA's guidance commonly ask customers to send in photos of the pipe entering the home so staff can review the material. (nepis.epa.gov)

Do the scratch-and-magnet check

EPA's quick-check guide and utility instructions use a simple method: a coin or key plus a strong magnet. This check helps identify the visible pipe material. It does not test the water itself. (epa.gov)

1. Find the pipe coming through the outside wall or floor and connecting to the meter.
2. If the pipe is painted, expose a small area of bare metal first.
3. Carefully scratch the pipe with a key or coin. Do not use a knife or another sharp tool that could puncture the pipe.
4. Look at the scratch mark. If it turns a shiny silver color, the pipe could be lead or steel.
5. Touch a strong magnet to the pipe. If the magnet sticks, it is steel. If it does not stick, and the pipe is soft and scratches easily, it is likely lead. (water.phila.gov)

A few quick clues can help. Lead is dull, very soft, and turns shiny silver when scratched. Magnets do not stick to lead or copper. Copper will not turn silver when scratched. Plastic is usually smooth and often white, blue, black, or green. (water.phila.gov)

Wear gloves, scratch only a tiny area, and clean up any dust or debris. If the pipe looks badly corroded or fragile, stop and ask a pro to inspect it instead. You can also buy an EPA-recognized lead test kit for the pipe material itself, but those kits check the pipe surface, not the water inside it. (nepis.epa.gov)

Read the result carefully

A home check is useful, but it is not the whole story. Some service lines have mixed materials because only one section was replaced in the past. Philadelphia's guidance notes that a property can have different materials at different points along the same service line, which is why utilities often want more than one record or inspection point before they classify the full line. (water.phila.gov)

That is why a visible copper section does not always guarantee the entire buried line is copper, and a utility record marked incomplete should not be brushed off. If your result is uncertain, take clear photos and ask the utility to review them, or request an inspection. EPA specifically recommends photo submission as one way utilities can improve confidence in customer-reported pipe material. (nepis.epa.gov)

Also, a non-lead service line does not always mean lead-free water. CDC says homes without lead service lines may still have other lead sources, including brass or chrome-plated brass faucets, galvanized iron pipes, and plumbing solder or fittings made before 1986. That is one reason the service line question and the ownership question are related, but not identical. If you are also trying to sort out which side is yours to maintain, see /guides/who-is-responsible-for-the-water-line. (cdc.gov)

Test the water if there is any doubt

EPA says testing your drinking water is the only way to confirm whether lead is present. CDC gives similar advice and says your local water authority should be your first source for testing and identifying lead contamination in tap water. Some public water systems will test on request, and some states or utilities offer programs to help pay for testing or replacement. (epa.gov)

If your utility does not test, EPA recommends using a certified laboratory. EPA's consumer guide says testing can cost from $15 to $100, depending on the lab and the test. Follow the lab's sample directions exactly, and collect from a faucet you actually use for drinking or cooking. (epa.gov)

While you are waiting for answers, use only cold tap water for drinking or cooking, because CDC says warm or hot water can have higher lead levels. Boiling will not reduce lead. If you want an extra layer of protection, CDC recommends a point-of-use filter certified by an independent testing organization to NSF/ANSI 53 for lead removal and NSF/ANSI 42 for particulate removal. (cdc.gov)

Testing matters even more for homes with infants, young children, or pregnant people. CDC says there is no safe blood lead level identified for young children, and infants who drink formula made with lead-contaminated tap water may face higher risk because of the amount of water they consume relative to body size. (cdc.gov)

If you find lead, act in order

If your record, scratch test, or water test points to lead, start by asking the utility four simple questions: Is the utility side lead, is the customer side lead, is the line listed as unknown or galvanized requiring replacement, and is there a replacement or funding program for this address. Some utilities help pay for testing or replacement, while others focus only on the public side, so the answer can vary a lot by city and utility. (epa.gov)

Federal rules are pushing utilities to move faster. EPA's final Lead and Copper Rule Improvements require community water systems and non-transient non-community water systems to fully replace all lead and galvanized requiring replacement service lines under their control within 10 years, and EPA says the replacement plan is due to the state by November 1, 2027. Those deadlines do not answer who pays for the private side in your town, but they do mean more inventories, notices, and replacement programs are being built right now. (epa.gov)

If replacement becomes part of the plan, compare the utility's offer, your ownership responsibilities, and likely private-side costs before you sign anything. Our /guides/water-line-replacement-cost guide can help you think through the budget side, and /states can help you check state-by-state pages for local rules and program details. Because permit rules, ownership splits, and replacement programs vary by place, confirm the latest details with your water utility, local health department, or plumbing permit office before work starts. (cdc.gov)

Frequently asked questions

Does a scratch test prove my water is safe?

No. The scratch-and-magnet check helps identify the visible pipe material, but EPA says testing your drinking water is the only way to confirm whether lead is present. A home can have a non-lead service line and still have lead from other plumbing parts. (epa.gov)

Can there still be lead if my utility map says non-lead?

Yes. CDC says lead can also come from faucets, fixtures, galvanized iron pipes, and older solder or fittings. Also, some properties have mixed materials because one part of the service line was replaced and another part was not, so if your map seems inconsistent with what you see at home, ask the utility to review it. (cdc.gov)

Who usually pays to replace a lead service line?

There is no one national answer. Utilities are required to inventory lines and, under EPA's final rule improvements, replace lead lines under their control, but local ownership and private-side payment rules still vary by state, city, and utility. Ask your utility whether there is a replacement program, cost sharing, or financial assistance for your address. (epa.gov)

If I rent, can I still check?

Yes. Renters can ask the water utility for the service line record for the address and can ask the landlord for any past plumbing or replacement records. If there is any sign of lead or an unknown status, ask whether the water can be tested and whether a certified filter is recommended while the issue is being sorted out. (cdc.gov)